Learn what "toe" is on an RC car, how it's measured, and how to use it to improve your car's handling
Quick reference
Sign convention: setup sheets are inconsistent about the +/- sign. Almost all RC cars run front toe-out, so a sheet listing "toe: 1" up front usually means 1° toe-out.
Typical toe
Class
Front
Rear
1/10 on-road / touring
0° to 1° toe-out
1° to 3° toe-in
1/10 off-road buggy (2WD/4WD)
0° to 2° toe-out
2° to 3° toe-in
1/8 buggy
0° to 2° toe-out
2° to 3° toe-in
Adjusting front toe
Toe (or static toe) measures the angle of the wheels compared to straight ahead when viewed from above with the car at its natural ride height. Positive toe angles indicate toe-in (wheels point inward) negative toe is “toe-out” with the wheels pointing outward.
In the front of the car, toe is adjusted by shortening or lengthening the steering links.
In the rear of the car, toe is usually adjusted one of two ways, and it varies by car (see diagram below):
Changing the angle of the hub with respect to the suspension arm. This is typically done using different hubs or different inserts placed inside the hub to hold the pin.
Some on-road cars offer the option of active toe in the rear. This setting is essentially the same as bump steer in the front - it alters the toe angle of the rear wheels as the suspension is compressed, so you can change the handling characteristics of the car based on how compressed the shocks are (where it is in the corner.) Learn more about active toe.
Active toe link on a Yokomo BD11 (shown at lower left). Amount of active toe is adjusted via spacers under the ball studs.
Common questions
How much toe should an RC car run?
Front is typically 0–2° toe-out and rear 1–3° toe-in, depending on class.
Why does my setup sheet show toe without a +/- sign?
Sheets often omit the sign. Since the front is essentially always toe-out, a plain "1" up front means 1° toe-out.
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